Hey again viewers welcome back to Underdog Garage today we’re doing a replacement on an intake manifold on a Volkswagen 2.0 liter TSI engine. So we have a 2013 Volkswagen GLI, and a check engine light came on. When we ran a diagnostic on it, the code P2015 came up. That code indicates a intake manifold runner position circuit fault. Now what that is on this being a 2013 this engine the car manufacturer date was after the improved intake manifold so this already had the improved version so we know it’s not that, but it could be a result of a sensor failure, or carbon buildup. Well either way it’s a component So we’re gonna replace that, and we’ll bring you along so you can see how we get into this thing and the all the hoses and the connectors and the sensors, and there are several areas where you can get into trouble on this, but we made sure to take some footage so we can document how to stay out of trouble on this thing. So come along with us and let’s see what we can do to get this thing fixed.The first step that we got to do is to get all of the airbox elements out of the way. Not difficult but gives us lots of room to work. This job will give you lots of practice on getting connectors removed and not breaking them hopefully. So the airbox had two bolts mounting it to the front grille. Once we got those undone, you kind of had to snorkel it out over the vacuum line. sorry for the blocked camera view but it’s no way to get in there to release the fuel pressure we’ve got a rag in place, and what I have done is just barely cracked the fitting to reduce or remove the pressure. Here I’m removing one of the many vacuum hose connections, and I’m using the spring hook to just barely get down along that hose, not puncture it at all but make sure it comes off easily. Underneath where those vacuum hoses connect there’s a small connector. connecting into the intake manifold, so here I’m getting that undone what we’re doing here is just removing the fuel line bracket on the top of the manifold. Intake manifold just a process of getting down to the core piece of the repair.I did try to keep bolts together with the parts that came off with just, so we knew going back on what went with what. Next we had to remove a bracket underneath the intake manifold that connected to two of the coolant lines. Take your time on this repair. If you’ve taken this on take your time with connectors, the routing of the connectors the
vacuum hoses, there’s lots of bits and parts connected to this intake manifold. what we had done in taking a look at the schematics and the information we could find on this we just counted all of the vacuum hoses and the connectors so that. we were mindful of where are they, what are the ones that we need to avoid. There are several underneath that you really got to be careful, especially the throttle body area, or you can yank that connector loose if you’re not careful. Here I’m removing a bracket that supports a number of the connectors and I felt that it was it was gonna be an advantage to get it out of the way and it did work out better to just have it dismounted and loose.This is the fuel line support bracket that has to be removed to get the fuel line out of the way. So here we’re undoing the bracket on the left side that holds to the coolant lines, now we’re removing the inlet pipe going into the throttle body, and we had to use a pick tool and take our time sort of prying around the entire inlet pipe. After prying we then could pull the inlet pipe down off the throttle body Now we’re working on the throttle body there are four long screws that mount the throttle body on to the intake manifold this part was kind of tricky. You weren’t able to see the bolts so you had to do it all by feel. Trickiest bolt was the back left. I really didn’t have much visibility on it, and you just kind of had to guide everything in and then start unscrewing it, and then get it out by hand.The other challenge is to make sure you don’t lose that screw or that bolt down into the engine. We did drop one but fortunately lucked out, and it landed on the garage floor. and success. Now we are finally down to what we’ve been working on which is the actual bolts that mount the intake manifold to the head. So here I’m removing those loosening them first. Now I’m starting to remove them. For safety sake I used a magnet to grab hold of those puppies. Didn’t want to get away from me. and this is where you do the wiggle wiggle jiggle jiggle. Patience a little bit of gentle persuasion I’m very gently pulling one last connector. Most Christmas tree clips holding the fuel injector the connectors I wanted to remove. it was easier to do it with the intake manifold flipped on its back.Once we had those connectors undone everything was separated and it was off the car. Well here we finally have our intake manifold with the
injectors attached and you can see the fault on this is this gate valve and this assembly right here P2015 they have to replace the whole assembly. So that’s what we’re gonna do. So now that we were ready to put the new intake manifold on I was swapping parts from the old one, putting the fuel rail on as well as some vacuum lines.We also switched out replaced injector seals since the injectors came out of the engine block. Lastly we did a carbon cleaning because this cars at 80,000 miles and the carbon buildup was awful. What I’m using here is the the tool for installing these injectors and getting them pushed down into place, and there’s a very specific position that they need to go in and it’s pretty clear on the head; there’s if it’s about in a five o’clock position so they can accommodate that electronic connector. But they were they were easy to put in. It’s just a really good firm steady portion. A little bit of clean oil on those o-rings so we don’t have any chafing when you go to install. Shouldn’t we be ready for the manifold install? should we? I think we’re ready. It’s sh*t or get off the pot time people. The most important thing I was focusing on was making sure that I had the intake aligned with the fuel injectors first, and then once I was happy with that I was just moving in the same direction getting it lined up starting the process of installing each of the bolts, and then I would sequentially go through and tighten them because there is a really good firm molded gasket.There’s a lot of compression that happens when you start tightening these down, so as you come around and tighten one round, by the time you get around to the next it’s loose. So I was just bouncing around in the sequence, lightly tightening until they all started to snug up, and that was a pre torque sequence. It was nice and gentle, side to side, top to bottom. Taking my time. So for torquing down the manifold according to our all data information you first torque each bolt to three Newton meters or 2.2 foot-pound Once you’ve gotten all of them torque to that spec, you then tighten them to nine Newton meters or six point six four foot-pounds. So here we started installing the support bracket under the intake manifold, and this was actually very tricky. You can see here this is where the bottom part of the support bracket goes into the engine block underneath the water pump.First thing I did was get the
bracket into position, and I connected it to the top mount on the intake manifold, but I connected it loosely so I had some free play and could move it around if I needed to. There’s a connector with a thin wire that sort of wraps around the support bracket, so you need to be careful you don’t tear it when you’re reinstalling. I think the best way to install the bottom bolt is to use a stubby triple square, but I ended up using a different tool. I ended up using a flex head ratchet and going underneath the AC line with a spider joint. Back together with the fuel line. Just pretty straightforward. Just make sure I get everything in position before we start finger tightening. You get it into position. You can tighten down one side by hand, just sort of spin it with your fingers then once you get that do the same thing with the other side and you tighten it down to 18 Newton meters which is 13 foot-pounds.What we’ve done is we have tested what the hand feel feels like on the torque wrench so we had a good sense of what 18 was gonna feel like. And attach in the air intake hose on the throttle body. I would say it was the second most challenging part of this because it was a bit mud wrestling with the stubborn rubber hose in a very limited space. So we actually kind of made a mistake with this. First we installed the throttle body with the hose on, but then we realized to get the bolts on you needed the hose off for the clearance, so we ended up taking the hose back off to get clearance to put the throttle body bolts back on, so we didn’t film the throttle body bolts going back in but here’s the hose going back on and getting reconnected to the throttle body.Slip it under the plastic air pipe and tighten it down it was all set to go. Next we connected some vacuum lines on top of the intake manifold got this back into place, along with all the other connectors we had disconnected. Because there are so many connectors to look after with this job I had prepared a list of all the different connectors and had gone through and counted and recounted about five times, and I use some tape you may see it in some of the footage, it’s the yellow bodyshop tape that I put on the engine area, and it listed the connectors and the count and I was going through as we were connecting them, checking them all off to make sure we’ve completed them all.Same thing with vacuum hoses, and I found that it’s a really helpful
tool to to be mindful of “okay how many connectors do I have to look after?”, and then where they generally are they located and going through and check on each one and even with doing that we still missed one. Now we’re reinstalling the PCV hose Now it’s time to get the air box back in. So again we kind of had to snorkel it back in sort of reverse of how we took it out.You can see putting that vacuum line over and then this vent hose goes down into a hole on the left side checking to see and make sure it lined up with the grommets So here I’m putting the inlet guide back in place. I think they’re two t25 or t27 bolts that hold the inlet on to the cover on top of the inlet. One more bolt that I forgot to get the air box securly, and last but not least the MAF sensor connector. With the air pipe connected, we were ready to fire this thing up and find out if we really screwed up or if we actually did it right. First time starting up. Fingers crossed we don’t die. I’m so nervous. Oh my gosh. Oh it clicked. Better. It’s making noises. Hey thanks viewers for coming along and seeing what we did on getting this repair done. We had a lot of fun doing it loved sharing it with you. I wanted to make the point that we did use OEM parts only, and we waited until the parts came so we didn’t have any trouble there.And a nice little tip there are a lot of connectors and vacuum lines on this manifold, easy to miss so wrote them all down and numbered them, and we double triple check as we went through the repair especially at the end. And even at the end after all of the counting that I had done Pete still found one. Had we missed that one this car wouldn’t have started. We would have been, you know, all over the place for the thing. So double–triple-check. Never hurts to make a list. So thanks guys for watching this video. We really appreciate it. Like this video? Give it a thumbs up. Have any questions thoughts or comments on it? Leave them in the comment box below we love to hear from you, love to hear your thoughts, and if you haven’t seen the other videos related to this repair we actually did a carbon cleaning while we had the intake manifold off and we pulled the injectors out with the intake manifold, so we also did a video on replacing injector seals.So I’ll link those two videos in the description below and be sure to check those out. And don’t forget to subscribe. You don’t want to miss what kind of
trouble we get into next. Thank you for watching See you next time .